Monday, January 04, 2010
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During the winter, most horses will have changes in their nutritional needs. Cold weather, which doesn’t permit riding, can dramatically alter the amount of calories a horse needs to consume. Some simple, general tips can help to keep your horse in great shape over the winter.
Spending more time in the stall and less riding usually means that a horse will need fewer calories. Then again, in colder weather, a horse burns more calories to generate body heat and maintain its normal core temperature. It’s important to know, however, that in all but the most extreme weather, a horse’s caloric needs generally rise only ten to twenty percent.
In the past, horse owners fed corn during the winter to help horses generate more body heat and reduce the stress of cold weather. However, a
horse is able to generate more heat in the hindgut from the fermentation of forage, such as hay and grass. Replacing some of the horse’s grain concentrate with hay can help it to more easily maintain its body temperature.
One way to do this is to substitute two pounds of hay for each reduced pound of grain fed daily. When less than half a percent of the horse’s body weight is fed daily in grain, consider supplementing with a specialty feed. This ensures that the horse is still receiving the right amounts of vitamins and minerals at the reduced feeding rate. For instance, a good winter ration for a mostly idle horse might be seventeen pounds of quality grass hay and two pounds of specialized feed. This combination meets 110% of a mature horse’s caloric needs, as well as ensuring it receives the right protein, mineral, and vitamins.
When the cold weather begins, horse owners can notice a greater frequency of impaction colic. One of the main causes of impaction colic can be dehydration from reduced water consumption, inadequate water availability, and eating hay (which only contains 10% water) rather than grass, which contains 80% water.
Making sure that horses have good access to unlimited warm water can help encourage horses to drink more and prevent impaction colic. When a horse drinks cold water, they must use extra energy to replace the heat lost to the chilling water, and they instinctively drink less. Adequate water intake ensures that the fiber in the digestive system stays hydrated, which allows it to be broken down by intestinal bacteria. This makes it much less likely to cause blockages. Adding a free-choice mineral supplement or mixing salt, mineral supplements, and electrolytes into a horse’s feed can also simulate a horse to drink more water. Providing adequate exercise also reduces colic by helping to aid gut motility.
Because an unclipped horse’s winter coat can make it difficult to check the horse’s body condition, the owner should use a weight tape or scale monthly to check the horse’s weight. This allows the owner to adjust the feeding program as needed and to keep the horse in peak physical condition and ready for warmer weather.
Finally, pay attention to the barn’s ventilation. Good air flow is even more vital than warmth to horses kept in a closed barn. Also, care should be taken when feeding hay to horses kept in enclosed barns. Horses that are fed hay from nets above their heads have more frequent respiratory problems than horses that eat hay from the ground or from hay nets hung low enough to allow the respiratory tract to drain down. However, be careful not to have the nets hung so low that a horse can get its legs tangled in them.
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
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Are you actively riding your horse everyday? Do you find your winters to be cold, and your horses' coats to be very thick? If you decide to actively work your horses all winter, you might want to consider blanketing your horse. Blankets help keep the horse cleaner, though good grooming always keeps the skin healthy and should be done regularly. As the seasons change, you can graduate your horse to several blankets, preventing rain and wind to touch him.
During the summer and depending on the environment your horse is living in, flies are usually a problem. Fly masks and fly sheets are very helpful items; they prevent the horse's skin from the bites. They are breathable and allow the horse to remain cooler than in the hot sun, especially if the horse is a dark color. Look for a blanket that does have a light color, and is durable enough to not tear when a horse rolls. These blankets also prevent "sun bleaching" of their coats. You will find that they stay very shiny, like a horse being stalled during the hot summer days.
Moving into the fall season, think about what your plans are for the winter. Are you going on extended vacations? Do you have someone around that can remove blankets, and put them back on? Are you willing to buy several blankets for the changing seasons? Blanketing takes several layers and different weights for temperatures. You are changing the horse's natural heat regulation system by blanketing, so you must be prepared to have enough to get him though the season. If you do not, then let his natural body keep himself warm.
A nylon sheet is a good fall sheet; it prevents wind from cooling the body too much. These are not normally waterproof, though. Good fall blankets to use are waterproof and breathable sheets for turnout. You want to find a durable outside liner that will not rip easily. Look for blankets that have shoulder gussets, for free movement. Also, fleece lined wither areas are a great addition to your blanket, as this part normally rubs the hair. When the temperatures drop from high heat to the 50's, this is a good time to use your waterproof sheet.
If you are expecting cold nights below the 30's and above 0 degrees, I would suggest a "medium weight" turnout blanket. These have an inner lining of sorts, and look for a waterproof and windproof blanket. I suggest using this at nights for a while, only. They will be too hot for the horse when the temperature rises during the daytime. You do not want to make your horse uncomfortable by blanketing him, that is why I suggest making sure you are around to change them with the temperature change.
Use your medium blanket for the cold days, and snowy weather. If the temperature does not drop blow 0 degrees, your horse should be fine in this blanket. But, if the weather starts changing to the negatives, I would suggest having a polar fleece under blanket to put on, or have a "heavy weight" blanket available. Again change them as needed with the temperatures. All of your blankets should have wither protection and a shoulder gusset, as I have discussed before.
When you are exercising your horse in a cold arena, you will need an exercise blanket until he is properly warmed up. Otherwise, you risk the chance of pulled and torn muscles because the body is unusually cold and is working too quickly. When cooling your horse from exercise, you can use one of your blankets to put on his hid quarters, preventing stiffening. I suggest wool or a fleece cooler, which actually wicks the sweat away and allows the horse to dry faster. Again, you have changed the horse's natural mechanisms for body heat, so you must be prepared to work with your horse.
Stable blankets have the same system. If your horse is in a stall often, notice the temperature in the barn. Decide what materials are best for what your horse needs. Cotton is very cool, and will not warm a horse. There are good stable blankets available in light, medium, and heavy weights. You will need to watch how the temperature fluctuates in the barn to decide what is best for your blanketing system. Again, please understand this is a time consuming system for your horse, and one blanket is not going to do the trick. You need to help your horse as much as you can if you choose this system. You will need to invest in several blankets to make it work well for him. But, if you are willing to do this, it makes it easier to cool him and groom him.
Monday, December 28, 2009
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One of the most interesting and most difficult aspects of horsemanship is learning to understand our horses and relate to them on horse terms. It always fascinates me that people consider themselves superior to animals and yet expect animals to learn our language rather than the other way around. Horses and dogs both learn to respond to complicated human demands but people often misinterpret basic horse and dog communication.
Building trust
As prey animals, horses have a very strong sense of self-preservation. Their instincts are to run quickly from any threat and to stay within the security of the herd. With good training and positive experiences behind him and a confident rider sitting on top, a mature horse will follow directions instead of instinct to a large extent. But we have to realize that the flight and herd instincts are just below the surface. It's our responsibility to build the trust that keeps instinct in check and the horse manageable.
Trust between people or between people and animals is built on a history of positive interaction. In order to trust someone, we have to believe they will respond consistently and appropriately in a given situation and that they will follow through with what they say. The same goes for horses. To build trust, we must respond appropriately and consistently to their behavior or anticipated behavior and once started on a course of action, follow through.
Understanding what horses are saying
Consistency and follow-through are simply a matter of self-discipline on our part, but appropriate response is only possible if we understand what we are responding to. In other words, we have to learn to understand what our horses are saying. After all, why should a horse trust a person who responds angrily to her fear on the one hand, or sheepishly to her bravado on the other?
Because people are verbal, we tend to dismiss other forms of communication. Horses don't use words. They don't even use sounds to any great extent. But watch horses as they interact with one another and with people. Their ears, eyes, muzzles, tails and body posture are all communicating.
Horses are social animals. As herd members, they interact with other horses continually and use a system of communication to let herd-mates know what they want and don't want. (Animal behaviorists disagree about how much animal communication is under conscious control and how much is automatic reaction to a stimulus, but that argument needn't concern us here.)
Calls, body positions, movements, and odors are all methods of communication. We can't sense the odor or chemical messages, but we can see and hear the others. Sit on the fence some sunny afternoon and be a silent spectator. See what signals you can recognize. The ability to understand horse body language makes our association with horses more rewarding and safer.
Equine body language
The most obvious signal is overall body outline. It's easy to tell the difference between the high, rounded outline of an excited horse and the flat outline of a relaxed one.
Ears
Ears are good indicators. They point in the direction of the horse's attention. Both ears pricked forward may look pretty, but when you're riding, you want at least one ear on you. Ears pinned back indicate anger or fear. (Fear and anger are closely related in people too.) Ears moving back and forth often indicate uncertainty. Some beginners misinterpret any backward pointing of the ears as anger, but it's the horse with ears flat back who's liable to kick.
Tail
The tail is also very expressive. 'High-tailing' is a well-known sign of excitement, but did you realize horses flatten their tails between their legs like dogs when frightened? A horse who scoots away from something with his tail tucked under is truly scared. Tail lashing is a sign of irritation and annoyance. A kinked tail is a sign of submissive fear and often precedes a buck.
Facial signals
More subtle for us are facial signals. In her book The Horse's Mind, Lucy Rees has a diagram of mouth and nose signals. A long nose and tight mouth show anxiety and fear. Horses will also show 'worry wrinkles' above the eyes. Watch a horse being taught something new. At first, his mouth will be tight. Then in the moment he understands, you'll often see the mouth relax and chew.
A wrinkled nose indicates annoyance and disgust. A horse threatening to bite has an open mouth and perhaps bared teeth. (Not the same as 'mouthing' in foals which is a submissive gesture.) A long nose with a slightly open mouth shows the horse wants to mutual groom, a gesture you may have seen while currying your horse. It becomes the characteristic long nose, drawn-back lower lip and extended neck when you find 'the spot'.
What I have mentioned here just skims the surface of horse communication. Thoughtful observation of horses combined with reading books and articles in such magazines as EQUUS and Practical Horseman will teach you lots. Learning to understand what our horses are telling us -- and responding appropriately -- makes a huge difference in our relationship with them.
Keeping horses at home has advantages and disadvantages. I have kept my horses in boarding stables and at home and can speak from both sides. When you interact with your horse every day, when you're the one who brings the food, when you can watch your horse just being a horse, you share a deeper understanding. At the stable, you only see your horse for a couple of hours a day and in a very structured environment. I find my approach to my horse is more businesslike at a stable because we're there to ride and train. At home, everything is more relaxed. Sometimes so relaxed I never get around to riding!
For me, the best of both worlds is to keep my horse at home during the summer and boarded at a stable with an indoor arena for the winter. If you are thinking of doing that, now is the time to check out stables and book a stall. If you wait until January, you may be out of luck.
When you're looking after your own horse, you can't, on a whim, decide to stay downtown after work and go to a movie. If your horse is unwell, you are the one who has to recognize that something is wrong. You have to decide when to call the veterinarian. You have to be there for the farrier. In other words, the full weight of responsibility of looking after a delicate life is on your shoulders.
Some people are very blasé about the whole thing. They've been very lucky and never had to deal with a horse emergency. Perhaps they don't know enough about horses to realize what could happen or don't care anyway. But most of us are very aware of the responsibility, especially if we've dealt with a colicking horse at 11 o'clock at night. I always advise new horse owners to start by boarding their horse at a good stable where they'll have support.
Veterinarians and farriers are vital allies in looking after our horses and it's important to build an ongoing relationship. A late night emergency call should not be the first contact with a veterinarian. While it might seem cheaper at the time to do innoculations ourselves, booking an annual veterinary visit has long term benefits. Horses' hooves need trimming and shoes reset if the horse is shod, every six to eight weeks. Rather than waiting until the hooves look long, or crack, or a shoe falls off, isn't it better to set up a regular schedule with a farrier and stick to it?
Typically in a boarding stable, routine veterinary and farrier care is provided for many horses at once. For example, a farrier might spend a whole morning at one barn, basically setting up his portable blacksmith's shop and attending to the hooves of one horse after another. Contrast that with going to an acreage for a single horse. (Keeping horses alone is another issue.) Hopefully the owner has the horse waiting in a barn or corral. Sometimes, an inconsiderate owner waits until the farrier arrives before going out into the pasture to catch the horse, who is perhaps standing knee deep in a slough. In the worst case scenario, the owner has forgotten about the appointment and the farrier has made the trip for nothing.
If you keep your horse in an acreage subdivision as many of us do, why not coordinate routine veterinary and farrier visits with neighbouring horse owners? Your vet or farrier will appreciate being able to make several calls in the same area instead of wasting time travelling. A good relationship with these professionals makes looking after a horse much easier.
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
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![[FIADOR diagram]](http://www.ramseyfamilyboarding.com/images/www_ramseyfamilyboarding_com/WindowsLiveWriter/Ropehalterwithfiadorknot_78B6/FIADORdiagram_thumb.gif "[FIADOR diagram]")
Materials needed
20 feet of 1/4 inch polyester rope.
Matches to melt and seal the ends of rope Measurements are from knot to knot and do not include knot.
Make the knots firm but not tight.
The last knot in about the middle of the rope is a knot with a loop for the tie loop of the halter.
After you tie the tie loop you go back and tie into the knots you have already tied.
To tie into a knot, loosen knot and tie into knot following rope path.
Tie into the left nose knot first. Then then right nose knot to make a double rope over the nose.
Tie into the throat latch knot. Arrange halter as shown so it makes sense. And tie into the right ear knot.
Gather the two 33" sections and tie a big ugly knot at the chin. Test all knots before putting halter on horse.
If halter falls apart, knots are not tied correctly. Untie all knots and start over.
Slip knots to adjust size of halter. Trim tie ends the same length and melt them with a match to seal the ends.
The idea of picking up a horse's hooves can intimidate some owners since a well-placed horse kick would really hurt! Such caution is good, but in reality if you pick up a horse's hoof properly you provide him with no leverage or ability to kick you. This is a situation where a person's worst fears can cause him to imagine an incident that is highly unlikely to occur with careful handling.
Here's how to safely pick up a horse's hoof:
Starting with the front hoof, approach your horse diagonally from his front so that he clearly knows you are there – you don't want to surprise him. Place yourself even with his shoulder and make sure to face his rear; you will both be facing opposite directions during the hoof picking process.
Making sure that your feet aren't too close to the horse's hoof, start running the hand parallel to him down his shoulder and along the length of his leg, finally stopping just above his ankle. Gently grasp the ankle portion and click (or otherwise verbally cue him) to ask him to raise his leg. If he's well trained, that small cue will be more than enough and he'll do just what you requested. You're now free to begin picking his hoof.
If your horse is being a bit stubborn or hasn't learned how to pick up his legs yet try leaning into his shoulder as you run your hand down the back of his cannon bone. You can also gently squeeze/pinch the tendons to further cue him to what you would like. As you perform these physical cues make sure you provide a verbal one also (I make a clicking sound) so the horse later associates your sound with the requested response. Increase the weight you push against his shoulder until he finally lifts his leg as requested.
When picking a horse's hoof you want to remove all debris from the hoof clefts as well as the rim and frog. Be careful around the frog because it can sometimes be a bit sensitive, particularly if the horse has thrush.
Once you have finished cleaning the front hoof carefully guide it back to the floor; you don't want to allow the horse to slam it, potentially hitting your foot in the process. Praise your horse and pat him on the front shoulder a bit so he understands that you are pleased with his cooperation, then run your hand along his back to his rear leg. Place yourself in the same position as you did with his front leg and do the process over again.
There is a slight difference between lifting a rear foot and front foot, even though your basic positioning and actions are nearly identical. When you lift your horse's rear foot he will probably give a little jerk that you might misinterpret as a kick. This is a common reflex reaction among horses and nothing for you to worry about.
Secondly, when you raise your horse's rear leg you'll want to step into him a bit so that your hip is underneath his leg. Rest his leg on your thigh, grab his hoof and gently flex it upwards. By doing this you lend him some support and more importantly the position of his leg and his flexed hoof will prevent him from being able to kick you.
Clean the hoof, lower it cautiously as you did the first and praise him. Congratulations – you're halfway done! The opposite side will be done exactly the same way, but try to return to his front and start the opposite side rather than move around his rear. It's bad practice to approach or circle all but the most trusted horses via the rear in such close quarters since a horse would be within range to strike.
When lifting any hoof try to make sure your horse is properly squared (balanced evenly on all four legs) so that when you lift one hoof he can easily balance on his remaining three. At no time should the horse actually lean his weight on you! Even when you rest his rear leg on your thigh you're not allowing him to use you as a crutch.
Once you have picked your horse's hooves a few times it will probably become very simple and take less than 5 minutes to clear all hooves. Most trained horses will raise their hoof for you the moment they feel your leg run down their leg.
It is a very good idea to control your horse's head while you are picking his hooves. This can be done by attaching his halter to crossties or asking a partner hold your horse's head. By controlling his head you ensure your horse can't move away from you while you're trying to pick his hooves, or worse… turn around and take a bite at your rear!
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Decide which hair you will be clipping before you begin.
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Begin by clipping a thin bridle path. You do not want to make the path too wide. A good rule of thumb is that the path should be two fingers wide.
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Trim the width of the bridle's crown piece up to but not exceeding 1 inch.
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Using a comb pull an inch of the mane from right behind where the bridle normally sits. Take the rest of the mane and tuck it safely out of the way. This will give you a clearer view of what you are clipping.
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Clip from front to back. This will help keep you from clipping unnecessary hairs.
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Cut downward on the mane from a point directly even with the back of the ear. Use a comb to help you get your lines straight.
Stretch a Standing Horse
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Groom you horse first. The rubbing and brushing act like a light massage and start the muscles relaxing. Grooming also allows your horse to settle into being handled.
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Lift one front leg and bend the knee. Raise the bent knee up in front of the horse. Move around to the front and slowly extend the foreleg out to straighten the knee. Hold for a few seconds and then slowly fold the leg back and place the foot on the ground. Repeat with the other front leg.
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Pick up a hind foot and fold it up under the horse's belly. Keeping the leg in line with the hip joint, slowly extend the leg backward until nearly straight. Hold this position for a few seconds and then slowly return the leg to the normal position and place the foot on the ground. Repeat for the other hind leg.
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Add some massage. Use your fists and knuckles to massage the large muscles in the hind quarters and upper hind legs. Do the same for the shoulders. Gently massage the ears and face to promote relaxation.
Stretch a Moving Horse
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Perform carrot stretches. Holding your horse in a halter and lead or by the reins of his bridle, stand to one side just behind his shoulder and show him a treat such as a bit of carrot. He will turn his head around toward the treat, stretching his neck as he does so. Repeat this on the other side. Do a few on each side.
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Stretch the horse while he walks in a small circle around you. Hold the reins of his bridle in one hand and stand beside him about where the saddle sits. Hold a dressage whip in the other hand pointing down toward his lower hind leg nearest you. Step toward the horse encouraging him to move forward and to the side in a curve around you. He should begin to step under his body with the inside front leg, crossing it in front of the outside hind leg. Repeat this from the other side.
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Work the horse on a lunge line or in a round pen. Groundwork like this loosens up and stretches the horse prior to ridden work. Watch for the horse to lower his head while working. This is an indication that he is relaxed and stretching out.
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Encourage the horse to stretch his neck forward and down from time to time during your ride. Raise your reins to produce a light contact on the horse's mouth. As he draws his head forward against this pressure, let the reins slide through your fingers. The horse will learn to "chew" the reins through your hands as he stretches his neck downward.
Horses roll for four different reasons: For pleasure, For self maintenance or grooming, to relieve pain or discomfort, or for rest. If your horse is not in a situation where rolling is dangerous or inappropriate, allow him to roll. It is one of the few personal pleasures a domesticated horse has, so let him enjoy it and don't worry about your wasted grooming job!
How do I know when my horse is about to roll?
He will show one of the following characteristics: pacing in circles, blowing the dirt with his nose, pawing at the ground, slightly bend his knees or lean to one side. If you are in a situation (like at a horse show, or while you are riding), and it is inappropriate or dangerous for your horse to roll, be sure to watch for these signs and correct the behavior before he actually lays down to roll.
Why does my horse roll just after being untacked?
Horses roll just after being untacked to ease the irritation of drying sweat, by drying the sweat with dirt. This dirt acts as an extra layer of protection against biting insects. They also roll after being untacked to adjust the alignment of their back. Think of this as a horse’s way of seeing the chiropractor after having carried you up and down all those mountains!
Where do horses like to roll?
Horses in a herd usually share the same spot for rolling. They will normally return to the same spot to roll every time. When you see your horse blowing the ground with his nose, he is checking that the rolling spot is free from debris and that there is adequate amount of dirt for comfort.
Did you know...
The way a horse rolls is an indicator of its health. A healthy horse with a good, strong back will vigorously roll from one side to the other without standing up first. When the healthy horse stands up after a good roll, he will usually go for a nice run and may buck a few times. Many horses with high set withers will lay down and vigorously roll on one side, stand up, and immediately lay down to roll on the other side...no need to worry because this action is healthy. The horse must stand up because his conformation does not allow him to roll completely over. (Some people foolishly state that smart horses can roll from one side to the other while dumb horses can only partially roll on one side, stand, and then roll on the other side. This of course is a farce!)
An unhealthy horse or one with a weak back may roll on one side very briefly then get up and walk away without immediately laying down to roll on the other side. Some unhealthy horses will refuse to roll at all. If this is the case, talk with your veterinarian and have him check your horse's back for soreness and/or other problems.
Most Equine Chiropractors believe that rolling may correct vertebral subluxations naturally. They have noticed that horses who have the freedom to roll and run free often have less chiropractic problems. By allowing your horse to roll, you may be preventing some future health problems!
Rolling plays a very important roll in your horse's health. When he rolls, he is stretching all the muscles in his spine, neck, barrel, flanks, and buttocks. Rolling helps maintain his body's flexibility and health. Many horse owners regularly turn their horses out individually in a sand arena to roll. A well-kept sand arena is a very safe place to roll and horses love it!
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Tie the horse securely in the stable with a quick-release knot. Cross ties work particularly well for grooming purposes. If your horse is not used to cross ties, introduce the concept of cross ties to your horse slowly! They can’t easily see the ropes connected to their cheeks and won’t immediately understand what is going on.
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Clean the horse's hooves with a hoof pick. Gently squeeze the back of the leg near the tendons and command the horse to raise his hoof. Hold it comfortably and dig out any detritus with the pick until the hoof is clean. Then use a small brush to brush any remaining debris away from the hoof. Depending on the state of the frog, you may need to cut away a flapping frog with a hoof knife. Clean all four hooves.
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Curry the horse's coat with a comb or grooming mitt. Sweep it along the horse's body in broad circular strokes, starting with the neck and working your way down to the flanks. Watch the horse's body language as you do so. If he swishes his tail against the stable wall or his ears go flat, you may be brushing too hard. Try to maintain constant contact with your horse to reassure them but also to let them know where you are currently at.
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Brush the horse's mane and tail with a proper comb. Work out any tangles as you go and remove any nettles or burrs. It pays to use short strokes starting near the bottom of the tail and slowly work your way up to the base.
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Whisk away any remaining dirt on the horse's body with a body brush. Start on the top of the neck and work your way down one side, then repeat the process on the other side. Check the horse's body for any cuts or irritations as you do so.
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Clean the horse's face with a finish brush, using gentle strokes to get rid of any dust.
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Wipe the area around the horse's eyes, ears and muzzle with a sponge or soft cloth. Remove any detritus that you find there.
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Remove the horse from the stable stall and sweep out the area where you have cleaned. You can then return the clean horse to the stable.
Two more things.
If your horse is kept out in a stall or pasture during a cold winter you may not want to brush your horse to much as that might disrupt the structure and oils of your horses winter coat. Simply removing major debris such as mud and burrs should suffice.
And, if your horse is not a show horse and doesn’t need to stay super pretty and clean at all times, once you are done with the steps defined above – let your horse go for a good role. I usually go through the above steps for the chance to bond with my horse and the opportunity to identify any problems with my horse rather than simply for the sake of keeping a clean horse. A horse in the wild is never kept this clean. Let your horse be dirty and happy! Nothing puts a smile on my face more than seeing my big beast roll and frolic in the dirt (also, this is really an opportunity for your horse to adjust their back!).
(originally posted here)
Did you know that finding a good horse trainer is more important than spending more money on the show or trail horse itself? Money is always spent on numerous items such as trucks or new tack or stall decorations or that promising colt but occasionally the new horse owner doesn't invest the time or financial resources to find the right trainer. This costly mistake can also be made by those who have been showing or breeding for years or those new to horses as well.
Time should always be spent researching any new horse trainer because a good trainer can be hard to find. A good client-horse trainer relationship is an important asset to the development and maintenance of a horse either for showing or backyard purposes. Any horse can be easily ruined with incompetent training so be sure to find the best horse trainer your money can buy. The following information will help you keep a horse trainer as long as you need them and help you to locate a new trainer if needed.
You are with your current trainer who has done wonderful things for your barn and horses in the past but now they don't seem to be spending enough time with your horse. Do you need to find a new trainer? We have seen clients move from many different trainers and some have been with a new trainer each season. Just remember honest hard-working horse trainers can be hard to find because better horse trainers are in demand. Remember, excellent horsemen sometimes charge more than their competitors because they get quality results. You really do get what you pay for.
A major problem that causes horses to be moved from trainer to trainer is communication. Is your trainer charging you too much in your opinion? Do you feel you have no control over your investment's show career? Did your trainer decide not to attend a show you had your heart set on? Did you think your horse should have won that last class because you beat the winner at the last show? By freely discussing your concerns or any of the above questions with your trainer, you can become the "perfect" client, rather than a customer looking for a new barn.
Each trainer is a business person trying to cover their costs incurred and most trainers charge about the same from breed to breed with some noted exceptions. Ask about specific charges if you have a concern but honesty is the best policy if you feel you've been overcharged. Deal with this issue before your next show; not during a show when there is already enough pressure on each trainer to perform their best.
Be aware that if your trainer charges a bit more than the trainer up the road and your horse is happy, leave your investment where it is. Find out what's best for your horse and not you. Is your horse happy and performing very well in the top ribbons at every show? Does your horse greet the trainer every time they go to the stall? Chances are you wouldn't have a happy horse if moved to a new barn, especially in the middle of the show season. You may be taking your horse out of the ribbons for the rest of the year. The value of that investment will decrease if it isn't winning so your horse's good attitude and happiness should be your number one priority, even if you can save $50 a month (or more) elsewhere.
Many new horse owners assume that they guide their show horse's career. Your trainer is the paid professional and should guide your horse. You wouldn't presume to tell a dentist how to drill your teeth or a brain surgeon how to operate so you shouldn't tell your horse expert how to train. Unless you've been training your own horses for years but haven't hung out a shingle, you should assume from the start your trainer knows what is best for your precious, provided you did the research before you hired them.
Don't be greedy and over show your horse or ask your trainer to do so. A tired horse will start losing classes or tricolors and you shorten your horse's show career dramatically. Furthermore, a show horse that places in the top 3 ribbons all season is having an excellent show season. Don't assume that if your horse doesn't win every class, then your trainer isn't doing a good job.
Your trainer may have decided that a particular judge doesn't like your style of horse and tells you that you shouldn't go to the next horse show. Listen to them; you can become an informed partner in the training relationship if you listen first and ask questions later.
When your trainer tries to explain why your blue-ribbon winner garnered a third in the last class, you should listen and don't be upset about losing. Even World Champions have off days; horses aren't robots. If your green horse didn't win but the trainer is telling you why they moved up in the ribbons or why not, you should listen first. Express your opinion of the performance afterwards. Better yet, video tape the class or buy a taping from the videographer and discuss the class together when it is convenient for the trainer.
Occasionally, a hunt horse will be purchased without a trainer's input to be the barn's next saddle seat or western horse. Understand why your trainer switches your horse's division. Your trainer wants a winner in their barn as much as you want one in yours.
What if you put the horse in training for 60 days as a trail horse and your trainer is saying you have a perfect western horse that is regional quality with your first horse show 6 months away? You have done your research and you know your trainer is honest but you don't know if you should continue training past the initial contract. The local breeder sold you a "pet" quality animal for less money and your trainer is now saying "show" quality. Whom should you believe? In that case, it never hurts to get a second or third opinion from another qualified breeder or trainer.
Be up front with your current trainer and tell them you asked for an outside opinion. If another reputable breeder says take your horse home, then perhaps you should do that and consider finding another trainer in the future. Although it is nice to assume everyone is as honest as you, it can sometimes be too costly.
Do you feel you're being overcharged? Be sure to ask for itemized bills with specific amounts for each service performed. Discuss this with your trainer as soon as possible to head off any "inflated" bills in the future. Too many people remove horses over money because they never discussed what it costs for vet bills, shoeing, worming, etc. which are additional costs. It is best to work out a yearly schedule for these extra charges before you bring your horse. You won't be surprised and you can budget as needed.
Don't assume your horse is being taken care of properly. Your research at the horse shows showed you that your trainer treated clients and their horses, or spouses and children very well. Don't assume they will treat you and your horse just as well. Assumptions can be too costly.
You need to observe everything your trainer does with your horse and evaluate your trainer carefully. Do you know enough to really evaluate the trainer working for you? Have you been in horses long enough or do you need to go to the library or purchase your own books in order to understand what you are seeing in the show ring or at the stable. Spend time reading and asking informed questions.
Show up unannounced and observe once that your horse's stall is clean, that there is enough hay and grain present, or that your horse is being worked consistently. Find out when the schedule is for working your horse next and be present to observe but don't demand a command performance. Horses enjoy their routines and you would upset their schedule, not to mention the trainer who probably has other clients waiting for their horse to be worked.
How do you know if your horse isn't being worked enough? Observe for a change in muscle tone. In other words, if your pasture pony still has a grass belly from rich spring pasture and hasn't lost it in 2 months, it may be time to start showing up regularly and watching every workout. If the trainer objects, you may need to move your horse. Is winter hair still present in June in cold areas or April or May in warm areas? Think back to when your horse shed before with similar weather and ask if they aren't putting on the stall blanket as instructed.
Obvious signs of filthy stalls and ribs showing can't be observed if you don't check up on your horse at least once a month. On the other hand, don't show up every other day and expect results. Even good trainers need three months with a green horse or two months getting to know a new, older trained horse.
When you are watching your horse being worked, pay attention to what the trainer is telling you but also how they are treating your horse. Do they cool out your animal after a hard workout and apply liniment or water rinse as needed or are they ignoring the horse's needs while speaking with you?
Do they need to use a whip while training? If a whip is needed, do they use it sparingly and for correction only? Any trainer that whips a horse in anger and for retribution is no horse trainer. Don't assume a trainer should never discipline your horse or that they won't spoil her either. Are training aids needed and being used properly? Can your trainer explain the shoeing used and is it legal according to the rules of your division and necessary to correct action? Do you see improvement in your horse's abilities under your current trainer?
Does your horse exhibit a drastic change of behavior towards the trainer? This may mean your horse isn't performing to the best of it's ability or perhaps performance drugs are being used. If you suspect something as drastic as drugs are being used, you can get a different vet to do a blood test for you but keep in mind it will be expensive with the barn visit and the lab work. Without trainer research and close observation of your show horse at home and the horse shows, none of these important questions can be answered. A good horse owner will pay attention to their animal's needs and make sure they are cared for properly.
You did your research before you hired your trainer and you pay your bills on time. It's been a year (or less), and your horse isn't broke to ride or drive yet. You've also been very honest with your trainer and expressed your concerns throughout the year but you see no improvement. It is now time to move on to a new trainer. The following tips will help you choose a better horse trainer than the last one.
There are several decisions you need to make before you go trainer shopping. Will your horse stay with the trainer throughout the whole year or does your horse need to be taken home after the show season? Will you go to the world championships? Does your trainer also hold a judges card? What is your show and training budget? Will you allow the trainer to switch divisions as needed? Will you listen to your trainer when they evaluate your horse? It is best to write these decisions down to remember them during the initial interview. And yes, it is a job interview so ask specific questions that need detailed answers.
You've decided you like a particular trainer after careful observation of their demeanor at a horse show. You should attend at least 2 shows even if they are only going to green break a trail horse for you. The important detail is don't tell them you are observing them for a possible job. As with any interview, they will always put their best foot forward.
Does your potential trainer present a professional picture from clean stalls to happy, well-fed horses. Do they have nice stall curtains and clean, safe horse rigs? The curtains and vehicles are nice but not essential when evaluating a new trainer. Don't rule out a smaller barn because they haven't bought stall curtains or hired an assistant yet, especially if they have excellent references from other trainers and clients. Is your potential trainer polite and easy to talk to even after they just lost an important class? Are their customers happy? Will your trainer take the time to answer all your questions if you're new to show horses? Do they have too many horses to give your investment enough time? Do they have assistant trainer(s) and enough grooms? All these questions can be answered if you take the time to attend a horse show.
Don't just ask one or two people about a potential trainer. Too often those in the stands at horse shows or other events may have been beaten consistently by you probable trainer. Your best references are current clients with that trainer and other established trainers in the region. Keep in mind that other trainers may dish some dirt to get you in their barn so be very careful how you ask for information. Sounds sneaky but this is part of your research to uncover someone who will be involved in you life. It is well worth the time spent.
Does your potential trainer place consistently last at this show with every horse they have in the show string? Be sure to observe the trainer at another show before making a decision about them as your potential trainer because they could have a barn full of sick horses or some other reason unknown to you. They could be a bad trainer but you won't know unless you attend another show or two.
You've now decided that the trainer should be approached and asked about availability in their barn for a new training horse. Be aware that some trainers may not work trail horses because of time limitations and they may have too many show horses already in their stable. In that case, feel free to ask whom they would recommend instead.
Make an appointment to visit your potential trainer at their stable before signing a contract with them. Too often, a contract for training will be signed at a show or event without first visiting where your horse will be staying. Don't make that mistake. Remember some horses are never happy, so look at every horse in the whole training facility and observe more than one horse being worked. Spend the day. Spend two days. Your time is valuable, but so is your horse.
Now you can discuss your questions about price, does the horse need to stay all year and if the trainer is going to the Nationals that year, especially if you have a contender. See a contract with specifics before you move your valuable investment. If your trainer has a judge's card, find out when judging occurs and who is taking care of the animals while they're gone and find out which horse shows you can't attend with your horse.
Another important question to ask is will they evaluate your horse in person at the next show or your farm. Set an appointment with them and then listen again if they want to switch division, etc. Ask for their opinion on a possible schedule of upcoming shows and you can start setting your calendar according to your vacation time and budget.
Hopefully you haven't burnt your bridges with your old trainer so you can get the information you need about your horse's feeding and working schedule, details about types of feed, shoeing, worming, or any other problems. Be very detailed and write everything down. Give this information to the new trainer after moving your horse. It will help them adjust your pony to a new barn.
You've been with your trainer and you are now quite happy with them. Something happens, and you run short of money. Talk to your trainer if you are ever having trouble paying your bill on time or if you don't have enough to cover for a previous bill. Some trainers are willing to work out a payment plan such as paying year round even if the horse goes home at the end of the season or paying a flat rate throughout the year.
A flat rate includes extra charges such as shoeing, vet bills, and so on. Be sure to ask that each bill is itemized to keep accurate records on your horse.
Perhaps you have run out of money completely and need to now take the horse home before the end of the show season. Discuss this frankly with your trainer as soon as possible. Many trainers may want the horse to stay and will take payments, because your horse is a consistent winner in the ring. Trainers always need a proven winner in their show string. They will never be able to work something out if you don't ask.
And listen, listen, listen. Honestly exchange information about what's best for you, your horse AND your trainer. Don't assume. Don't have unreal expectations for your horse. Listen without interruption. Respect flows from owner to trainer and vice versa. Discussions about differences of opinions are always done in a professional and calm manner. Let the trainer know if you feel you should move your horse and give them an honest chance to improve. A good trainer is one of the best investments your barn or stable can make; a great trainer can usually win with a lesser quality horse in the show ring!
If your research is done about your trainer and the communication flows well in both directions in your training relationship, you shouldn't have to look for a new horse trainer anytime soon. You'll be earning yourself many more blue ribbons in the future and increasing the value of your animal by hiring and keeping a good trainer.
Finding a place to board your horse is a stressful endeavor. Sometimes you are limited in your options, due to your remote area. Perhaps you know certain barns or stables that you know to stay away from. Your intuition is your best source. You know your horse; you know what makes him happy, nervous, and angry. These are all factors that you should keep in your mind when looking for the right facility.
Gather a large list of places; do some research at feed stores, and tack shops. There might be some places you never knew about, hiding in the woodwork. The smaller facilities tend to be much safer, since it is a small operation, and fewer people oversee it. Call each place for an appointment; this is much more professional than showing up, and the owner or manager will have the time to show you around.
When interviewing a barn, spend time getting to know the owner. Ask questions about how she got into riding; what are her goals, etc. She sets the tone for the farm. If she is nervous, and you feel like she is putting on a show, turn around. You and your horse will wind up getting nervous and stressed out there. If you find a person that is inexperienced, but seems to be doing an okay job, continue looking at the facility.
First, look at the horse's health. Are they skinny? Do they have shiny coats? Are they together in one field or separated? It is best to keep your horse in it's own pasture, but with horses near by. Having your horse in a large group is very intimidating at first, and can eventually lead to injuries. If there is a barn, make sure to spend lots of time looking at it. See if the aisles are cluttered. Are there rubber mats on concrete? If yes, that is good. Concrete is a very slippery surface, especially if it is wet. Are the horses tied with cross ties? Do they have hitching posts to tie to? Be careful of cross ties. If your horse has never been in them, he might not understand that he is tied. They can not see the ropes very well, and get nervous from the tugging on either side of their cheeks. This could cause a very ugly and possibly fatal accident. Also, make sure the ropes are secured on bailing twine to the tie ring. You want a horse to be able to break away from it's tie; you do not want a horse down, and have to cut a rope to free it.
Is the tack room tidy? Is the office tidy? Can you keep your supplies in either of these places? Make sure you are going to be comfortable here. It is important that you can carve your own space in the facility for your things. If you feel like you will not have a space, don't board there. It is far to stressful to have people using your things, or having it exposed and possibly stolen. If you feel like you can work something out, like building a locker, approach the owner with it. Watch closely how she reacts, and set a time for it to be completed. Use this as a test to see if this person is trustworthy, efficient, and genuinely wants you at the facility. The best reaction would be "great idea. All of my boarders should have their own place here."
When looking through the barn, watch the stalled horses. Are they pacing? Are the stalls clean and tidy? Ask questions: how often are the stalls cleaned; do these horses get turn out time; how much and how often are they fed; what kind of hay do you feed; do I supply my own grain; do you mind feeding my horse a special diet every day, three times a day? If you want your horse in a stall, make sure it's cleaned at least two times a day. Also, if you can have turn out time, take it. Your horse will be so much happier. If you find the horses are nervous, and pacing, I would suggest finding another facility.
When you are asking these feeding and stall questions be sure to ask what veterinary work is required when boarding. If the answer is "none", leave! You want a place that requires at least worming and coggins. I would also want to require 5 way, flu, strangles and any vaccine for a disease in your area (i.e. Potomac Fever). Your horse should not be subjected to any of these illnesses. It should be a requirement of the facility to have proof of vaccination, and have the horses vaccinated two weeks prior to boarding. This gives the vaccines time to build the immune system, and makes it safer for the facility. I would also suggest that the facility require a vet certificate/physical check be completed, but that is the discretion of each facility. Find your comfort level for vaccinations and what should be required.
Now, once you have gone through the barn, take a nice long walk outside. Walk the pastures. What is the fencing? If it is barbed wire, leave. Smooth wire is tolerable, make sure it is tight, and flagged or has a top wooden rail so the horse can see it. Barbed wire is a major hazard; if horse gets caught, the barbs can sink into their skin and slice arteries, possibly killing the horse. Do not tolerate it! Wood or synthetic fencing is ideal with three to five panels for each section. Watch to see if it is maintained well. Make sure there are no nails sticking out or the wood is rotten. Wiggle some posts, making sure they are secure in the ground.
Do the pastures have adequate grass? If not, are the horses fed hay? They should be. Do the pastures have an adequate water source? If it is a creek, does it run year round, and do you have to break ice often? If there are automatic water systems, look to see if they are clean. Ask if there is a heater in each one, and what temperature it warms the water to. If you find the water source is a tub, make sure they keep it clean, and fill with fresh water one to two times a week. Also, make sure they have heaters in the winter to prevent freezing.
If you find you like the facility, come back and watch a riding lesson, or people working their horses. Do a little research on the place before completely committing your horse and yourself to it. You want to see happy relaxed horses. Anger and rage are obviously not what you should be getting yourself into. Watch a lesson to see if the instructor can communicate well. Is the horse happy? Does the student seem to be learning? Even though you might not want to take lessons, this is a good indicator of who you will be communicating to. Also, notice the arena footing. Is the horse slipping? Is it too deep? Think about what you need for your horse in an arena. Does it meet your standards? Make sure it is large enough for what you need.
If everything seems good and meets your standards, sign a boarding and riding release. Have a wonderful time at your new facility, and I hope it works well for you. A happy horse is so important, and finding the right place is a crucial element of that.
Monday, December 21, 2009
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Even though a horse may be "turned out" for the winter because he is not in active work, he needs protection from wind, moisture and cold. Whether you blanket your horse or not depends on many factors including his condition, his activity level, his coat, his level of nutrition, and the protection offered by your facilities.
Actually, preparation for winter begins well before the first snow. In August and September, horses living in temperate climates should be allowed an increase in body weight of about 5%, but not more than 10%. A 1200-pound adult can gain 60-120 pounds in the late summer or early fall. This extra flesh and fat will provide added insulation and an energy and heat reserve for when weather is particularly bad.
During cold weather, rations should be increased to counteract environmental stresses caused by wind, freezing rain, snow, sleet, and below-freezing temperatures. Feed by weight, not volume to know exactly how much is being fed. The hay ration should also be adjusted to compensate for low temperatures. For every ten degrees Fahrenheit below freezing, the ration should be increased 10%. When it is twelve degrees above zero Fahrenheit (twenty degrees below freezing), the a 1200 pound horse’s normal hay ration of 16 pounds per day should be increased to about 19 pounds per day (a 20% increase). Horses fed less than is necessary to combat cold and wind will burn fat and muscle tissue by shivering to keep warm and they will lose weight.
SHELTER
A horse's shelter requirements are fairly basic - a place to get out of the wind and wet during cold weather. It is not necessary or desirable to have an air-tight, heated barn for horses. In fact, that is one of the unhealthiest environments in which a horse can live. A cold, but not drafty, barn is healthier.
A pastured horse must at least have access to an adequate windbreak. Shelter can consist of a cluster of trees, a ravine, hill, canyon, or creek bottom as well as of man-made structures. A simple three-sided shed can be situated with the back wall to the prevailing winds (often north) and the opening facing the sun (usually south in the winter).
THE HORSE’S NATURAL BLANKET THE HAIR COAT
Most horses begin shedding their summer hair in August and start growing thicker winter coats. In order to produce a dense, healthy coat, a horse's diet should provide an adequate quantity and quality of protein. A normal winter coat has as much insulating capacity as most top-of-the-line blankets. The downward growth of the long hair coupled with the stepped-up production of body oils allows the winter coat to shed water and keeps moisture away from the skin. A dry horse has a much better chance of remaining a healthy horse.
A healthy horse can withstand temperatures well below freezing as long as it is sunny and the air is still. The winter coat absorbs heat from the sun and the horse's body and traps it next to the skin. During cold temperatures, pilo erector muscles make the hair stand up which increases the coat's insulating potential. Wind separates the hairs, thereby breaking the heat seal which results in a great loss of body warmth.
Snow showers, sleet, and the freeze-and-thaw typical of many northern areas are particularly hard on horses. A wet hair coat conducts heat away from the horse many times faster than a dry hair coat. In addition, wet hair tends to become plastered close to the horse's body, nullifying the air insulation potential of a fuzzy, erect winter coat.
A horse with a long winter coat should receive minimal grooming - a rudimentary "dusting off" or vacuuming of the hair ends. Vigorously currying a winter coat can disrupt the natural protective layer of oils which is essential for protection from moisture. After riding, rub the coat dry with a cloth or gunny sack or allow the horse to roll in sand or dry snow.
A fuzzy winter coat can make it difficult to determine condition by visual inspection alone. The round teddy-bear look can be deceiving - it makes even an underweight horse look like it is in proper flesh. Feel the rib area for a moderate fleshy cover once a week throughout the winter.
USING WINTER BLANKETS
Some horses may require the use of a blanket during the winter: the show horse, the clipped horse, the southern horse that moves north during the winter, the old horse, and the horse in severe weather with inadequate shelter. Blanketing adds expense and labor to the winter care routine.
Blanketed horses must be meticulously groomed on a regular basis to minimize rubbing and rolling. Proper blanket fit is paramount. Blankets that are too small can rip or cause rub marks and sore spots on the withers, shoulder, chest, and hips. Too-large blankets can easily slip and twist, possibly upside down which can cause the horse to become dangerously tangled and the blanket mangled. Blanket linings should be of a smooth material to prevent damage to hair, such as the mane near the withers.
Overheating can be a problem with blanketed horses, so each horse may need two or three types and weights of blankets. What is appropriate for low night time temperatures in a barn is not necessarily desirable for day-time temperatures in a sunny paddock.
Waterproof blankets keep precipitation off a horse but often do not allow heat and moisture from normal body respiration to escape. A better choice is a waterproof-breathable blanket which prevents rain and snow from entering the blanket but allows moisture to escape. A too-heavy blanket can cause a horse to sweat, become wet, then chilled. This can sap a horse's energy, lower his resistance, and create an open invitation for respiratory infections. Check for over-heating or dampness by slipping a hand under the blanket at the girth and flank areas.
Saturday, April 04, 2009
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Today the Siemer’s came over for a riding lesson. As soon as the kids exited the car they all ran up a freshly delivered pile of compost which is no less than 10 feet tall. Within a matter of minutes they had found a sled and a large cardboard tube which fit 2 kids at a time. They used them to slide and roll down the massive pile of poo. As their parents looked on contemplating whether or not to end the fun or just wash the clothes the kids got more and more creative in the manner in which they enjoyed this King Kong sized pile of shit. In the end the children played and they decided to figure out the rest later :).
Sunday, March 15, 2009
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Monday, March 09, 2009
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We will be gathering for a trail ride at 9:a.m. Friday.
Here are the photos from the ride!
We had a great time and had beautiful weather, nothing like a beautiful day in Palmdale!
Sunday, March 08, 2009
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We stopped by Gymkhana today to check out some of the hoopla. It was a beautiful day which created some beautiful competition.
Saturday, March 07, 2009
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Our trainer, Syd Therman, has 40 years of experience training various animals from Elephants (Jungle Book – 1994) to dogs and of course horses.